Monteriggioni is what you go to Tuscany for - a village disguised as a castle, ringed round with story-book watchtowers, like something from Le Morte d'Arthur. The only way it could be more redolent of medieval Italy is if they installed a complimentary damsel in a turred, for rescuing purposes. The Hotel has 12 sweet little rooms, mamma-made breakfast and a pool under the battlements.